There is more than one way to skin a cat

If you do a search or browse books on a term such as “dog training”, you will be slightly overwhelmed by the various options and opinions. Many of the methods out there do tend to fall into general categories such as positive reinforcement, dominance theory, luring , shaping, clicker etc… the modern version of two broadest categories can be simply defined as “the Ceasar Milan way” or the “Victoria Stillwell way”. Please understand that neither Ceasar nor Victoria developed their methods from scratch. They are both based on long term dog theory, the dominance theory (Ceasar) being in existence longer than the positive reinforcement methods of Ian Dunbar(Victoria). Researcher beware – there are very strong opinions on both.
I encourage anyone who is interested in any dog training to do their own thorough research. Personally, I feel that there are pros and cons to both methods and which ones to choose or what combination of trainings to use depends largely on the dog and the handler. I also believe that as a trainer, I should understand and appreciate each method for what it is and while I can have an opinion, it comes down to what my students want and need. I would of course refuse to use older, harsh training methods that border on abusive. This can be a fine line, a very gray area to some, but I use my common sense.
Maybe both fortunately and unfortunately, there is a lot of emotion that plays into most if not all of the decisions we make regarding our dogs. Take care not to let emotion make the decision for you, but use your emotion to help you make a training decision you are comfortable with and not what someone tells you to be comfortable with.

I overheard a conversation in the elevator the other day (it is hard not to in an elevator and the woman was not trying to be quiet by any means), a woman was telling her coworker she was finally able to keep her dog off the couch by using a shock collar. I grimaced instinctively, thinking this seemed a bit extreme just to keep a dog off the couch. She noticed my look and defended her actions by saying “It’s not like electrocution, just a little reminder zap.” I was only able to give her a I hear what you are saying, but not really buying it look before they exited the elevator. In hindsight, I should have been quicker to pull out a card for the local dog training club and let her know we have alternative methods. While my reaction was involuntary, did I really have a right to make a face? She was not speaking to me, I did not have the full story and she was using a training method easily found at PetSmart. I use training methods that Ian Dunbar and Victoria Stillwell supporters would not approve of, would I want someone pointing that out to me?
I know there are going to be people who feel it is responsible to speak up on behalf of the animal at all times, while others will find a gray area of appropriateness. Let’s all agree on one thing though, should you decide to voice your opinion to someone who has not asked for it, be respectful and informative, not accusatory. I believe people will be more receptive to listening or at least consider listening if you do not instantly put them on the defensive.

How good is your recall?

As an instructor, I harp on how important a solid recall is, how it just may save your dog’s life one day. As a busy dog owner, I too struggle to find the time and motivation to really proof that recall. It is hard to comprehend that your dog’s life could be on the line. I convince myself that my dogs would “know” I was calling them away from a dangerous situation, should the occasion ever arise. But the reality is, I am kidding myself. My dogs have better than average recalls, especially my older dog, Luey, but they are not good enough. Luey has shown me on a couple of occasions recently, that we need to proof the recall.
The first incident, he was not on a leash because we were going to the car from the house. It never crossed my mind to leash him. He saw a dog across the street he wanted to see and he took off, ignoring my calls completely. Since then, I have been more careful to have him on a leash and pay more attention to what is outside the garage. That practice could not help me in the next situation though.
We have a small park in the back of our neighborhood where the dogs run all the time. There is a retention pond at the back of the park that is full of water this time of year and surrounded by woods. Between the many conservation areas in the neighborhood and the woods, snakes are not an uncommon site. We have even had a couple of alligators removed. We do not let the dogs wander into the conservation areas, nor are they allowed in the retention ponds.
We walked to the park one hot, record breaking afternoon, and apparently Luey was just plain over the heat. He bee-lined to the pond and started swimming around, having a good ol’ time. Of course, monkey see, monkey do, Bailey was in right behind him. It really was only 20 seconds or so before they finally came to me and no harm was done, but it was a long 20 seconds. Enough time a snake could have bitten or whatever else could have happen that I do not even know about. Even though my husband laughed as I told him the story, I was fuming. Maybe partly because they had just gotten a bath the night before. That will teach me!
So I am now dedicated to proofing recalls, going back to the beginning, being sure I have a solid foundation and practice, practice, practice. As a visual person, I do not prefer reading and writing “how to train a dog”. I like to see a behavior, I like to show a behavior. But there are a few key points in recalls that can easily be expressed.
1. Never call a dog to a negative situation. Do not call your dog to "come" to scold or to something they do not like, such as a bath or nail trim. Find another way to lure your dog to the desired location.
2. If you are unsure that your dog will come, do not call until you have a way to enforce it. Have your dog on a long lead where you can bring the dog to you before you call or be close by so you can reach out to your dog.
3. When the dog comes, it is a Party! Have high value treats and/or a toy. This is motivation for the dog to come the next time he is called.
Finally, practice calling your dog away from fun situations, such as playing with another dog and then letting him return. If you only call your dog away from fun when it is time to go, he will associate the call with the end of fun time and not want to come.
This is by no means an all inclusive list, simply important tips to remember. Please share additional tips that you may have.